Day 25; 31-07-2012

Tuesday...
We piled into the Les and Barb's car (the 'Big Pajero') today to take the trip to Jim Jim Falls.  It was only about a 140 km round trip from our campsite at Mardugal.  The road had been recently graded so wasn't in too bad condition.  The road turned into bush track for the last 10 km before the falls car park.  The walk is 1 km into the falls.  It was pretty strenuous as it gets closer to the end, it turns into a climb over boulders similar to what we encountered at Emma Gorge in the Kimberley a week or so ago.  The walk in took us about an hour and a half whereas, the walk out was about an hour. No falls to report.  The only injury sustained was a crack on the front of our little video camera - it doesn't seem to have affected it though.  Judy had it in her back pocket when she sat on a rock while negotiating a rough patch of boulders.  
The falls were not much more than a trickle but still an awesome sight.
After returning to camp we had a roast lamb dinner cooked in the camp oven.  We live it up in the scrub over in these parts.  Finished off with custard and fruit salad for dessert and billy tea.
We're all a bit knackered after a big day so turning in shortly.

Only a short drive tomorrow.


Links:
Google Maps reference is -12 25.783, 132 32.3
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day2531072012

Day 24; 30-07-2012

Monday...
A cool morning today.  After packing up our homes, we returned to Ubirr (pronounced oo-beer) to take in the art sites.  There are several of these in this area.  The local ranger holds a 15 minute presentation at each site which provides an insight to the meaning of the paintings and some factual and legendary background to the people that made these artworks.
We decided to have smoko at a small shop nearby where out front, there were two aboriginal artists creating their own works of art.  Fascinated by this art, I sat and watched them.  I asked if they'd mind if I took some photos of them and they obliged.  The detail and precision of their strokes is intriguing.  His brush was a stalk of grass which was thinned at one end to a couple of mm wide.  Brilliant talent!!!
We then headed towards the SW towards tonight's address.  Along the way, we stopped off at Nourlangie - here, there is a series of art sites and a lookout called Gunwarrdehwarrde.  Yeah - not sure how that is pronounced.  The lookout provides a view 'over the fence' to the neighbouring Arnham Land.
We are camped at Mardugal for tonight and the next.  Tomorrow, we'll take a drive around the area untethered and see where that takes us.


Links:
Google Maps reference is -12 25.783, 132 32.3
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day2430072012

Day 23; 29-07-2012

Sunday...
We drove out of Darwin at about 0900 and took the turn towards Jabiru which is a small settlement in the heart of Kakadu National Park.  To enter the park, you need to get a pass which costs $25 per head and covers you for 14 days.  They tell you to keep the pass on you at all times.  It attracts a $120 fine if you don't have it.
From what we've seen so far of Kakadu, it is very well presented.  By that I mean you can get to all the points of interest via sealed roads and other infrastructure which allows you to behold everything it has to offer with minimum impact on its beauty and environment.
We stopped off at Mamukala along the way.  Here, you can view a typical live wetlands habitat from a viewing platform.  A very peaceful and calming place to just sit and take in the sites and sounds of the wildlife.
At Jabiru, we headed straight to the information centre and got the good oil on what to see in the immediate area.  We are camped overnight at Merl camping ground which is about 35km to the NNE of Jabiru.  It's a great little spot where you can choose from many sites, each nestled in the bush separated by 20-50m of scrub from each other.  Both of us were able to setup in the same area - such is the size of the clearings.  Mozzies are pretty hungry here which I guess is to be expected in this environment.
This afternoon, we took in the sunset perched up on a rocky ledge high above the plains of Kakadu.  The short and easy climb to the top of this formation is rewarded by a 'gob-smacking' view.  As you'll see from a couple of my photos, the setting sun lit up the western rock faces.  Sensational view !!!
On the way to the sunset viewing, the walk takes you past several rock art sites which we bypassed in order to catch the sunset.  Tomorrow, we will return and take in these sites before heading to our next unfixed abode.



Links:
Google Maps reference is -12 25.583, 132 57.167
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day2329072012

Day 22; 28-07-2012

Saturday...
Left Litchfield National Park at around 0900, headed for Darwin.  Along the way, we stopped off at a place called 'the Termite Mounds'.  Here, there a series of mounds built by magnetic termites.  They're called that because they build their mounds with a flat footprint which has the thin edge facing North/South to minimise the exposure to the sun and hence staying cool within.  Clever hey?  The field of these mounds looks like a cemetery of gravestones.  Quite amazing! 
We've never been to Darwin before.  Arrived at around 1030 and checked into a caravan park called Aurora Shady Glen.  It certainly is that.  We didn't research this one as it is located next to the showgrounds and today is Darwin Show Day.  Pretty noisy at the moment (2030) but hopefully it'll die down by bedtime.  It's also causing me grief as I can't connect to the internet because we're sharing the same cellular network as the showgrounds.
We enjoyed lunch down at the wharf and later visited the Aviation Heritage Centre.  Here, they have a collection of memorabilia from the WWII bombing of Darwin in Feb 1942.  Inside this single hangar, they have a B-52 Bomber.  It's one of two on display outside the USA.  As you'd imagine, this thing takes up most of the hangar.  So scattered around the floor space under the B-52 are many other planes and vehicles such as a Spitfire, Tiger Moth, Mirage fighter and others.
Interesting place to visit if you ever get the chance.

Links:
Google Maps reference is -12 25.7, 130 53.983
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day2228072012

Day 21; 27-07-2012

Friday...
Today we set out in one car and took in the sights and sounds of the Litchfield National Park.  It's quite a small park with a lot of points of interest within a small area.  In saying that, the entire park is 1500 sq km in area.
Firstly, we took the off road track to 'The Lost City'.  Pretty rough track but it leads to a series of sandstone rock formations which stand like pillars and paths meander through them which gives the impression of the ruins of a lost city.
Next we visited Tolmer Falls.  This is a single drop waterfall similar in appearance to Wallaman Falls at home.  There is no access to the deep pool at the bottom of the falls.
Off into the scrub again, we went to the Blyth Homestead which serves as a reminder of the days that this site was a tin mine.  This is the homestead of a tin miner and his family.  The hut built in 1929 is in ruins but is a visit into the past to see the conditions that these people lived in.  This site is accessible by 4WD only as it crosses a couple of creeks along the way.
From there we went to Wangi Falls (along with 1000 other people).  This place is the most accessible and popular spots in the park.  You can swim in the large pool at the base of the falls.  Nice site but shared with a lot of people.
By now it was mid afternoon so we headed home via Tabletop Swamp and Buley Rockholes which is great little swimming hole to cool off after a day of driving and walking.  It was a welcoming refresher.
Today served as our halfway mark of our trip (in time that is).
Three weeks down and three to go.  So far we have traveled 6800 km.
Tomorrow, we head to Darwin.

Links:
Google Maps reference is -13 5.583, 130 47.083
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day2127072012

Day 20; 26-07-2012

Thursday...
We left Scott Creek at 0730.  Along the way, we caught up on a few outstanding repairs and groceries at Katherine.  Also dropped into the information centre to get the guff on what to see and do in the area so that we could plan our next few days.
We made off to Litchfield National Park.  We pulled up at a 4WD camping ground at Florence Falls.  There is also a 2WD camping ground which was pretty full when we arrived around 1530.  The sign leading into here said 'no caravans'.  But we didn't have any problems with our van.  The road was a little steep (in descent) in places and some tight corners but overall pretty good.  The truth will be in the pudding when we leave to tackle the uphill climb with the load.
After settling in, we took a short walk to the base of the falls.  Took some piccies and a swim.  The water was flowing well and the falls were beautiful.  The water - so clear and a bit cool.  In parts, the water was up to 6 feet deep and the bottom was still clearly visible.
The temperature around here is quite warm given it's winter at around the high 20's and low 30's.
As the crow flies, we are only about 80km from Darwin.  We plan to stay here for 2 nights and them poke on to Darwin.

Links:
Google Maps reference is -13 5.583, 130 47.083
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day2026072012

Day 19; 25-07-2012

Wednesday...
We left Kununurra at 0900; Destination Katherine, or there abouts.  Today's drive took us through some stunning landscape near the Victoria River Roadhouse (where we had lunch).  The scenery was wall to wall huge escarpments and cliffs beside the road.   The time zone change messed around with our stomach clocks having had Brekky in WA, smoko and lunch in NT.  But we battled on and ended up having lunch at 1500 (NT time).  All up, We got 'jipped' for an hour and a half so we pulled up stumps on the side of the road at Scott Creek - about 70km SW of Katherine.  Beautiful starry night here.
Tomorrow, we will point north from Katherine towards the Litchfield National Park after we make a stop at the information centre in Katherine and get the good oil on what to see and do.


Links:
Google Maps reference is -14 55.51, 131 52.60
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day1925072012

Day 18; 24-07-2012

Tuesday...
Today we all piled into Les' and Barb's car and took a drive to El Questro Station out along the infamous Gibb River Road.  This is a station which happens to have a number of attractions within its confines and they've exploited it.  I'd estimate they would see a thousand people through it's gates each day...  We paid $10 a head for the privilege.  It calls itself a Wilderness Park.  El Questro is the home of several gorges and mountain ranges.  At the turn off, we encountered a bloke whose camper trailer had suffered an injury to its suspension.  We stopped and Les helped him reassemble his leaf springs.  It was interesting to watch, he started out with the intention of just advising but couldn't help himself.  You could see that he was fighting the urge and eventually, he had his head and hands in there  getting dirty.  
After resuming our day trip, we started off at Zebedee Springs which is a natural spring fed babbling brook.  Water temperature is 32 degrees.  Had smoko at El Questro Station Township.  Township is a loose use of the term but here you can camp, fish and join any number of guided tours only limited by your budget.  We chose the budget option today which is self drive. 
El Questro Gorge was the next stop on our itinerary.  We didn't quite get there.  The old Pajero balked at a creek crossing that we decided to not take the risk on.  We headed off to a lookout which provides a panoramic view of the Cockburn Range.  Unfortunately, the view was hampered by a blue smoke haze but certainly a view to behold.  On our return trip, we stopped in at Emma Gorge.  Here, Jude and I took the walk into the Gorge...  The walk was 1.8km over some pretty tough terrain.  It took us an hour.  It started off reasonably simple but within about 500m from the end, it got tough and probably not so much a walk but more a climb over boulders. For an old fart with a gammy knee and 20 kilos of camera gear on board, I thought I was doing OK.  I had my hiker's pole in one hand and tripod in the other.  Within 100m of the end, I saw a photo opportunity off to the side of the 'track' and ventured over to get the shot.  On the way over, I got my foot tangled in a fern frond and, yes, I fell 'arthur over fred'.  I knew this wasn't going to end well once you get to that point where your off kilter in the forward leaning free fall.  I've been there before more times than I care to remember.  Actually, I never mentioned it, but on the first day of our trip, I went all the way to a concrete footpath in a similar manner at Julia Creek when I stepped over the drawbar of the van with a handful of gear.  I got one foot over and the other one didn't follow.  Took a heap of bark off my hand.
Today, I hit the deck pretty hard.  I had my camera around my neck and it hit the rocks too.  It actually landed it's lens in some water as well.  Surprisingly though, the camera suffered some bruising but nothing broken,  My neck is a bit sore from the jolt but otherwise, I'm OK.  Tomorrow morning when I get out of bed, I'm sure I'll be reminded of the ordeal.
Anyway, I got the shot and decided that I'd come too far to give up, so we battled on to the holy grail at the end of the trail.  It was a true spectacle where the 120m high sandstone cliffs meet at a small waterfall which spills into a small pond all year round.  A simply stunning place to behold.  It was worth the effort!!!
On the way back out, Judy took a small tumble too.  She suffered a bruise to her knee.
So, all in all, the day was eventful but also rewarding.  We got back at about 1730 in need of some relaxation time to lick our wounds.
After today, we have in all, traveled about 400km of the Gibb River Road except that we did an 'out and back' trip from each end.  After doing those trips, we are pretty comfortable with our decision to not do it from end to end.  The ends of it are reputed to be the best parts.  It's basically 660km of crap road.
In all, the road conditions in WA have been quite good.  Over here, they still have one lane bridges that we outlawed 20 years ago in Qld.  There are no Give Way signs on them - it's a case of first in best dressed.
Tomorrow, we leave WA and make our way into the northern parts of the NT.  Catch you there but it maybe a couple of days of communications blackout.  Stay tuned.


Links:
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day1824072012

Day 17; 23-07-2012

Monday...
Today was kickin' back day.  We spent the day at Kununurra picking up stuff and a few repairs, etc.  Les spent half the day at the hospital waiting to see a doctor about his tick bites.  They all started to get a bit angry.

We're staying here for 3 nights so we can take a day trip to El Questro Station tomorrow (Tuesday).

No photos today.

Day 16; 22-07-2012

Sunday...
Brrrrr!!!  Cold morning in Fitzroy Crossing.  I measured 3.4 degrees.  We got away by 0700 as we had a long drive ahead of us.  We headed to Kununurra (arrived at 1545) and are now camped up at the Ivanhoe Village Caravan Resort.  Nice shady place and very friendly and obliging people.
Not much to speak of today other than lots of driving.  We covered 665 km for the day.  The Cooks' camper sustained a small injury along the way.  The stone guard mounts suffered metal fatigue and broke off.  We had a very strong headwind for the first half of the journey.  One which knocked our fuel consumption around a bit.

Links:
Google Maps reference is -15 46.20, 128 43.80
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day1622072012

Day 15; 21-07-2012

Today's destination was Fitzroy Crossing.  The intention was to get there and set up and head off to Geikie Gorge, which is a 20 minute drive to the north.  Sealed road too which is an unusual bonus.  Once there we boarded a boat to cruise the Fitzroy River down the Gorge.  This little area is home to freshwater crocs, and assorted birds and fish.  This was a very relaxing way to see the gorge in its glory up close and personal.  The Fitzroy is big deal up here.  In the wet season, it can get up to 8 metres higher than it is in the dry as it is today.  You can see the high water mark etched into the walls of the gorge.
We are camped up in the camping grounds within the Fitzroy Lodge Van park.
Very cool tonight - probably going to be cool in the morning as well.

Links:
Google Maps reference is -18 12.50, 125 35.05
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day1521072012

Day 14; 20-07-2012

Today was a relaxing day spent around Broome.  Les threw a line in but didn't get a bite, I did a couple of photo shoots down at the point - one at high tide and one at sunset.  The girls chilled around the campsite.  Interesting - the sea scape was so different from yesterday afternoon when we went down for a look - it was low tide then.  Today, I specifically targeted high tide and it paid off.  The beautiful deep azure of the Indian Ocean contrasted against the sandstone cliffs which made for some nice images.  
This afternoon, we had a camel ride on Cable Beach.  Quite an experience.  They're a docile animal.  The ride was a short stroll down the beach and return.  On the way back, we passed an elderly couple that emerged from their small tent  to watch us go by.  They were completely starkers!  Stood there as bold as brass and smiled as we passed by.  As we approached, the old fella was bending over with his back to us - it wasn't pretty I can tell you.  Going by the way they were hanging, I'd say they've been unrestrained for some time.  A pair of old naturists just going about their business.  Cracked us up!!!  No pun intended.
It left indelible images on the back of our retinas.

Links:
Google Maps reference is -17 54.80, 122 15.067
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day1420072012

Day 13; 19-07-2012

We got an early start at 0545.  Packing up in the dark, we tried to be as quiet as possible so as not to disturb the other residents of the campground.  It was great to get such an early start as there was no traffic to contend with on the Gibb River Road or the Gorge road.
It took us 5 hours to get to Broome where we rocked up at the Broome Caravan Park and fortunately managed to get a couple of spots.  The place is jam packed with vans of all sorts and sizes.  After lunch at a nice little cafe in town,  We took a drive around to Gantheaume Point which has some dramatic shore lines which show signs of millions of years of erosion.  I plan to go back tomorrow and have a bit of a play around with my camera and tripod.
Not much else to speak of today so I'll turn in for the night.  No early starts tomorrow so a sleep in will be in order.

Links:
Google Maps reference is -17 54.80, 122 15.067
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day1319072012

Day 12; 18-07-2012

After Leaving Derby at around 0730, we stopped off at the Boab Prison Tree which is a grand old tree reputed to have been used in the 19th Century as a prison for aboriginals.  It's a large tree hollowed out by time and estimated to be thousands of years old.
Before leaving there, we agreed to a change of plans (because we can) and instead of going to Broome, we decided to head up the Gibb River Road to Windjana Gorge.  We had already planned to go there after Broome but this way, we save some backtracking.
The road into the Gorge was quite an experience - very rough with lots of large corrugations.  When I say large, the pitch of the corrugations was such that your tyres actually fit in the dips thus resulting in a very rough ride.  One particular patch of road was so rough that our stainless steel aerial snapped off at the base.
The campsite is an area nestled right beside the gorge. 
As we arrived at the registration station, we passed a bloke on a push bike.  I couldn't believe, this poor bugger traveled that road on a bike.  Interesting to note though, that he was standing on the pedals - not sitting on the seat.  After settling in, we took a 3 hour walk through the gorge on the banks of the Lennard River.  In the dry as now, the river is a series of pools inhabited by Barra and freshwater crocs.  I'd estimate we saw about twenty crocs along the way.  The limestone walls of the gorge stand up to 100 metres high.
I have to confess a story about yours truly when it came to bath time.  The facilities at the camping ground were surprising - they had hot/cold showers and flushing toilets and very clean.
I wandered over to the showers.  When I got in there, there was only one cubicle available so I set up camp.  The cubicles were very roomy with a shower curtain across the end.  There was quite a draft blowing through under the walls which kept blowing the curtain up.  I remember making a mental note to myself that lucky we all have the same tackle in here as the curtains may as well not have been there at all.  I was just about to drop the daks when Barb walked in and made comment that there was no cubicles left.  Holy crap!!!  I'm in the women's showers!  I grabbed my stuff and bolted out so fast that I left my soap behind.  Trying to be discrete about it, I whispered to Barb (who took my cubicle) to pass my soap over the wall.  She said "here Robert" in full voice - thanks Barb.  Just lucky that everybody were in their  cubicles when I went in there because I'm not sure who would have got he biggest fright.
Oh well - nobody was injured in the incident.


Links:
Google Maps reference is -17 24.867, 124 56.60
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day1218072012

Day 11; 17-07-2012

Today, we caught a bus to the airport where we boarded our sea plane.  A 30 minute flight found us at the site of the horizontal waterfalls.  The falls are a phenomenon where, what is referred to as a tidal pinch, creates a series of whirlpools and a differential height between each side of the opening.  This is caused by the ingoing and outgoing tides where a large body of water has only a very small opening through which it passes thus causing the surge that is the horizontal falls.  There are a group of young people that actually live in a house boat which is the pontoon base where we landed and all activities occur.
There are two sets of falls - one wider than the other.  At first, we took a ride through the wide falls in the fast boat but not the narrow one because the skipper deemed it unsafe.  We were then treated to a swim in the shark cage and lunch was grilled Barra and salad - beautiful.  After lunch, we took a ride up the creek in and out of the gorges and cliffs surrounding this spectacle.  The water was so calm and deep turquoise in colour.  With the red ochre tones of the rock faces, the scenery was very striking.  Cruising through here makes you feel insignificant as a human in this landscape - it is so inspiring.
Later we took another ride through the falls on an outgoing tide and this time we went through the narrow one. 
For the flight home, we took the scenic route in and out around Talbot Bay and the archipelago areas of the north west Kimberley.  We arrived back at our campsite at around 1500.  It was a big day out - one never to forget.  Simply stunning!!!!
Oh I forgot to mention...
Les flew us home (see the photos).  He accepted a round of applause after we safely landed.  You'll see in the photo that he did it with his eyes shut.  Les' resume is expanding - experienced pilot, helicopter stuntman, skydiver, caravan repairer, good samaritan and the list goes on.



Links:
Google Maps reference is -17 18.48, 123 39.00
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day1117072012

Day 10; 16-07-2012

Before we left Fitzroy Crossing, we had a quick look around.  This is pretty small community - basically 4 shops and 2 roadhouses.  The local IGA is pretty much a one stop shop for everything.  I tell you, there's not much call for glaziers in Fitzroy Crossing - none of the buildings have windows - just barred up doors.

We left there  at around 0930 and arrived in Derby around 1230.  Derby was a specific destination of ours from the outset.  We've travel over 4000 km to get here.  This is the target of our only booked commitment of our entire trip.  We have a booking tomorrow on a tour that takes us to the Horizontal Falls by Sea plane.
After we arrived and set up we gathered some supplies from the local Woolies and then took a drive through town for a look around.  We went to the Derby Jetty to see the sunset over King Sound and enjoyed some local fish and chips.  The crowds gather all over the jetty to watch the sunset.  Derby is renowned for its large tidal range which can be up to 11 metres.  The sunset this afternoon coincided with the low tide and made for a spectacular show.
We're here for two nights.  We are parked up at the West Kimberley Lodge which is a pretty low key and tidy place on the outskirts of Derby.


Links:
Google Maps reference is -17 18.48, 123 39.00
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day1016072012

Day 09; 15-07-2012

Today was fixit day.  After cutting an inspection portal in the back panel of the van, we got to see the extent of damage to the winding mechanism.  On the positive side, I have learned a load more about how this mechanism works.

It turns out the guide that the push rod runs in was bent which kinked the box section enough to crimp itself on to the push rod thus restricting it's movement to zero.

We managed to straighten the guide enough to release the push rod so that it has free movement.  Luckily, nothing was actually broken.

So we now have it free standing without any extra support.  Tomorrow will be the litmus test when we wind it down for our trip to Derby and then up again at the other end.

Links:
Google Maps reference is -18 12.50, 125 35.05
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day091507201202

Day 08; 14-07-2012

We got away from the Bungle Bungles Caravan Park at around 0700 as I had a date with a bloke in Hall's Creek to get a new tyre at 0900.  Total damage was $395.

Then we headed off to Fitzroy Crossing where we plan to stay 2 nights now.  It's only a small drive (about 3 hrs) to Derby which is where we need to be by Monday night for our booked tour to the Horizontal Waterfalls on Tuesday.  We're all looking forward to that after speaking to many people along the way that have done it.  It gets the thumbs up as a must see by everyone.
We had some dramas when we arrived at Fitzroy Crossing.  When Judy and I were establishing our site, we started winding up the van top when we heard this loud bang.  We had inadvertently left one of the hold down clamps still secured.  I have had thoughts of what would be the consequence of this or anything where the winding mechanism was to play up.  Well we now know because we broke something - I knew that noise wasn't gonna be good news.
We had to use Les' high lifter jack to raise one corner while the other three corners raised normally via the winder.
We have a bush mechanic solution setup at the moment to get us under way.

Each corner has their own separate winding tackle all controlled by a single main pulley and winch system.  The biggest problem is that the faulty corner is the worst to get at - in the corner sealed by the shower/toilet area.  It appears we may have to remove the entire back end of the van but that's a second choice for obvious reasons.
1st option is to cut an inspection hole in the corner which will give us external access to the relevant pulley system where the action has all gone down.  From there, we will be able to see the damage and what course of action to take.
Tomorrow morning (Sunday), we are going to launch into some repair work in order to either repair it fully or get a reusable work around that will get us home or at least to someone that repair it.  There are a couple of places in Broome that may be able to help.  Being a weekend is the big issue.
Tonight we went over to have dinner with Barb and Les (BYO).  When we got there, they were inside their tent and there were strange conversations emanating from the tent.  Dialogue like...  "Just lay there and shut up", "now roll over", "what's this" and "there's another one".  Other comments which have been censored I will not mention.  We thought they were doing kinky things with a torch.  It's lucky the tent is too thick to show the silhouettes.  It turned out they were searching each other for ticks which they picked up somewhere.  After talking to a lady in the laundry, Barb learned that they are grass ticks which are fairly common around here.  Anyway, drama averted.  Barb, Les, the neighbours and us have all undergone counseling and all is good.  Very funny from a spectator's perspective though..

Links:
Google Maps reference is -18 12.50, 125 35.05
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day0814072012

Day 07; 13-07-2012

*** WARNING - This blog contains references to bodily functions that may offend some readers ***
Well, this is the last day of our first week of travel - it's gone quickly.  We spent the day touring the Bungle Bungles.   This place has serious Wow factor!!!  We set off at 0600 down the worst road I've ever driven on.  It's pretty much the consensus of opinion around the place that the road is crap.  We took 2 hours to do 50km.  That just gets to visitor centre where you pay your money and get a permit for your car for the privilege of traversing the next 30 km of this 'beautiful' road.  But getting to the other end certainly paid off.  We chose to do the 3 km walk to the Cathedral Gorge.  The Bungle Bungles is a sandstone formation located in the Purnululu National Park.  The shapes carved by time in these rocks are unique and amazing.  They are a dome like formation where the stratum (I think that's the plural of strata) of the sandstone are identical from one dome to another.  I'm sure this tells of their history to those people with thick glasses that know all about this stuff.
Cathedral Gorge leads to a dead end of a huge natural amphitheatre.  It is so massive, you just need to pause and take it all in.  As it approached midday, the sun began to creep down the inside of the gorge walls which lights up the rich ochre tones of the sandstone.  We spent an hour or so in there before heading back out because we had to be back at caravan park 80 km away by 1500 for our helicopter flight.  Luckily, we allowed a little extra time - about 30km out from our destination, we destroyed a tyre.  So careful not to end up with a second one, I took it a bit slower and the corrugations!!!  Oh did I tell you the road was rough.  Holy crap, I swear our new car is not that anymore.  We made it back in one piece in time for our flight.
Well what an experience!!!  The chopper took us over the entire formation which gives you the full picture of the vastness of the phenomenon.  The chopper is a small one with no doors.  I sat in the front and Judy and Les in the back.  I wished the pilot had warned us when he was going to bank.  After we landed, Les' description of how he held on at that point just cracked us up -  I haven't laughed so hard for a long time.  He reckoned that his arse puckered so much that the seat would have to be pulled back out.  He had his legs tucked under the pilot's seat in front and hanging on to anything he could find.  He reckoned if he was going to fall out, Jude and I would be stuffed because he had such a hold of the bar behind the pilot's seat, that he'd take the pilot with him - he wasn't goin alone.
What a day!!!

Links:
Google Maps reference is -17 26.49, 127 59.8833
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day0713072012

Day 06; 12-07-2012

A day of driving today.  We made an early start - up at 0400 (NT time - 0430 EST, 0300 WA time).  Got away from our campsite at 0545.  We headed for Kununurra and picked up some replacement fruit and veg that we had stolen from us at the border quarantine.  After a fuel stop and blog stop - that's where we stop on the side of the road and update the blog while we have Next-G reception.  Les managed to find replacement latches for his tail gate so he fitted them there while I was blogging and we all had smoko.  The tailgate became a must do after our trip back out from our previous campsite yielded a copious amount of dust ingress all over the storage of Les' and Barb's trailer.
At the supermarket getting grocery supplies, we ran into 'Roothy' where Les bailed him up for a chat.  Les was like he had met Santa for the first time - just tickled pink.  For those of you who don't know, Roothy is a legend in the 4WD and Caravaning world.  He has regular articles in several magazines such as '4WD Action' and 'Caravan & Motorhome' and has many DVD's of his adventures around this great land.  Some of which Les has in the back of his car traveling with him.  Anyway, he's a nice unassuming bloke and only too willing to oblige for a chat while he packed his groceries in the back of 'Milo', his truck.  What a rocket!!!  He was obliging to a couple of kids (and us) to have a photo taken with him.
We set off from Kununurra for the Bungle Bungles.  The drive had some breath taking scenery lining each side of the road.   Huge mountain ranges with a unique appearance - some with large escarpments and some that look like a pile of boulders that have been stacked by some large bugger.  There have been some recent fires through some of this country and it's interesting to note that the Boabs - and there are trillions of these things out here, seem to be resilient to bush fires.  They appear virtually untouched where the fire has been all around them.
We intended on going into the camp grounds at the Bungle Bungles but when we got to the front gate just off the road, we found they were full and requiring 48 hr prior bookings.  That not being the way we roll, we pulled up stumps in a non-powered (and no amenities) area in the back of a caravan park nearer to the highway.  Tomorrow, we will take a a drive down to the Bungle Bungles - we're told it's a pretty ordinary road so we'll get as much time in as we can by leaving at 0600.  Les and Judy and I are booked on a chopper flight in the afternoon.  I'm told it's the best way to take in this marvelous place.  $250 for a 30 min flight I thought was reasonable and a must do having driven 3000 km to see the place - too hard to pass up.  So I'll report back on how it all goes tomorrow.

Links:
Google Maps reference is -17 26.49, 127 59.8833
See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day0612072012

Day 05; 11-07-2012

Well, today is Barb's and Les' anniversary (31 yrs - but don't tell them I told you).  It's also Jude's birthday.  Happy Birthday, Sue!!!  For those of you not familiar with our family, Sue is Judy's twin sister - I won't tell you how old Judy is or she'll kill me.  But Sue is 51 today.  The day started off with a fresh morning - 13 deg. at sunrise and maxed out at 38 deg. - pretty hot for a winter's day!  As I said yesterday, the intention today was to do very little - that we did.
A very relaxing day was had by all.  We finished the day off with a beautiful roast dinner.  Early start tomorrow (Thursday) because we're planning to get to the Bungle Bungles by around midday if we can so we'll have to get away by about 0600.

See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day0511072012

Day 04; 10-07-2012

Sunrise at about 0700 over here (NT time).  Small drive today - 330km.  Being at a van park, we grabbed the opportunity to top up our water tanks and a delayed start after some grocery shopping.  We set off about 1030.
The drive here was sensational with wall to wall escarpments of red weather worn rock cliffs I'd estimate to be 100's of metres high.  Photos don't do these justice.
Our destination was the Gregory National park at a small camping area near the Bullita Station homestead (S 16 deg 6' 46"; E 130 deg 25' 25").  Google Maps reference is -16 6.7667,130 25.4167
It's at the end of a pretty dusty, rocky and bumpy 50km road.  We dropped our tyre pressures which made a difference to the bone shakin going on.  I can say our van has now been through the elements after having been to Fraser Island in the sand, salt and heavy rain.  It has now been christened with dirt and dust so it's right of passage is complete and ready to take on the Gibb River Road in a couple of weeks time.  We were please to find no dust leaks, however, the outside of our rig looks like it's been in the NT now.
The intention is to stay here for two nights so we can spend the day in between just chillin'.  The campsite is on the banks of the East Baines River which have quite prominant signs alerting to the fact that crocs inhabit the area.  Judy and I will be safe - not so sure about Barb and Les - they pitched their tent probably about 30 metres from water's edge.
The temp had climbed to 31 deg by day's end but dropped to the high teens by bedtime at around 2200.
A beautiful moonless but starry night ended the day.

See more images at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day0410072012

Day 03; 09-07-2012

Covered a lot of territory today - about 820km.  We are holed up at Katherine tonight.  We are not seeing any signs of winter right now - it's about 30 deg at 6:30pm.  Hope it cools a bit tonight.  Even this morning was only about 15 deg when we started out.
Not much to talk about today other than that we saw a lot of white lines and straight roads.  Some dramatic changes in landscape along the way.
There are a lot of WWII historical sites up this way which I guess is to be expected.
Also can't get over the number of vans, campers and motorhomes in the NT.  I'd hazard a guess that only about 25% of the vehicles that we have encountered have been single vehicles.
We've had the privilege of having our own defence force escort since Camooweal yesterday.  A convoy of Army trucks has been keeping pace with us for two days.  I think we've overtaken them at least six times.  Then they get to overtake us when we're having a break and so it goes around.  We noticed them at Katherine again this afternoon when we got here.  However, we'll part ways tomorrow as we head west - I expect they'll go North.
We stopped into Mataranka to have a dip in the Thermal Pools.  It was very nice but probably would have been more welcoming if the temperature was in the teens rather than the 30's.
While we were enjoying our dip, some grub nicked the cover off our van's hot water vent.
Ha!  Funny thing happened tonight...
Judy was catching up with some washing and was digging in the peg bag.  We have a plastic bag to carry clothes pegs in.  It turns out that Les thought it was a rubbish bag and had been throwing his empty beer cans in it.  Our pegs and washing will probably smell like a brewery now -  Thanks Les.





See more photos at... https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day0309072012

Day 02; 08-07-2012

Today, we got off to a later start at 0730.  Stopped off in Mt Isa for a few supplies.  Les needed to find a replacement part for his camper tailgate.  Being Sunday, the chances were slim.  He went to Supercheap and found the doors closed with a sign showing opening hours from 0830.  At this stage it was around 0840.  Not waiting any longer, we all went to Bunnings.  The lady at Bunnings informed Barb that it was pretty normal around these parts.  Sometimes they might not open at all if they don't feel like it.  That's Mt Isa time!!!
Anyway, we headed west.
We topped up our fuel tanks at Camooweal because we expected that it might be much dearer as we go further west.  As it turned out, the fuel at Barkley Homestead was the same price as Camooweal - so we didn't gain anything there.  We couldn't apply my 'drive by' theory as there were no second choices.
Just as we were leaving. Les got roped into help a couple of 'damsels in distress', with a tyre with a separated tread.

Les bein' a good samaritan.

As you can see here, the horizon in NT is not horizontal - strange phenomenon I know but that's what happens when you get a stranger to take the photo...
We pulled up for the day at a large rest area called T & W Bore Rest Area - 140km east of the Three Ways junction.  Found a nice little patch of dirt a fair way off the highway.  Witnessed a pretty decent sunset and a relaxing evening led into a beautiful starry night that makes living in the bush a unique experience.
See more images at....https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day0208072012#

Day 01; 07-07-2012

Well we got off to an early start as planned.  We met up with Barb and Les (our travel partners) at 0500.

Had a good run - roads weren't particularly busy.  

We pulled up stumps at a rest area called Fountain Springs which is exactly half way between Cloncurry and Mt Isa.  We're sharing the place with about 20 other vans - popular spot.  But I expect that will be the case for everywhere we stop.  As I type the temperature is falling rapidly.  It's gonna be crisp!!!

We topped up our tanks at Cloncurry.  Note to self...

When entering a new place and you're in the market for fuel, do a drive by through town before you settle at a place to do business.  We pulled up at the first BP and took in 100 litres - bit pricey we thought at $1.80 / litre.  Went down the road and found a second BP selling the same product for 12c a litre less.  Howzat for competition?  We could have saved 12 bucks on one fill.

Put that one down to experience.

Tomorrow, we plan to head off into the territory and hope to get to around Tennant Creek somewhere.

Catch you when we Next-Get some network coverage.

See more images at 

https://picasaweb.google.com/106361511620108780730/Day0107072012